Talk · Sourcing and orders

Who owns the pattern and tech pack after the factory makes my samples?

Ownership of patterns and tech packs is whatever the agreement says, and many orders say nothing. Agree it before sampling, including reuse, storage and transfer if you change supplier.

Published · 4 min read · Sino Finetex Editorial Team

Who owns the pattern and tech pack after the factory makes my samples?

Illustrative situation

A brand has paid for three sample rounds of a hoodie and decides to move production to another factory. The first factory says the pattern is its own work and will not release it. The buyer had never discussed ownership.

Main answer

Ownership of patterns and tech packs is whatever the agreement between you and the factory says, and many orders say nothing at all, which leaves the question open. Agree in writing before sampling who owns the pattern files, whether the factory can reuse them for others, and whether and how the files transfer if you change supplier.

Different files, different answers

A tech pack that you wrote is yours. A pattern that the factory drew from your sketch is more complicated: the factory did the work, and may treat it as its own unless the agreement says it is transferred to you. A base pattern that the factory already owned and you adapted is usually the factory’s. Separate these in the agreement instead of using one clause for all.

What to agree

State who owns the tech pack, the final pattern, the graded sizes, any marker or cutting files and sample garments. State whether the factory may use the pattern for other customers, and for how long confidentiality lasts. Say whether you will receive the files, in what format and when, for example after payment of the development fee. Ask for the files to be stored securely.

Link ownership to payment

Many factories are more willing to transfer a pattern when the development cost has been paid. You can agree that the pattern becomes yours when the development invoice is settled, or that you receive a licence to use it. Be clear about whether you must keep ordering from the factory for a period, which some suppliers ask for in return for low development fees.

Questions to ask the factory

Ask in writing whether the factory regards the pattern as its own or yours, whether it keeps patterns after a customer leaves, and whether it would release graded files if you paid a fee. Ask what format the files come in, because a pattern locked in one software package may be hard to use elsewhere. Ask how long it keeps your samples and files, and how it handles requests to delete them. The answers shape what you should negotiate.

Related reading

See the products page for the products behind this topic, and read quality agreement next. Both are general guides, not a quotation.

When it is already unclear

If there is no agreement, ask the factory to put its position in writing and negotiate. Where the pattern is valuable, a lawyer’s advice is worth the cost. For new work, put ownership terms in the first quotation or order confirmation. This is general information and not legal advice.

Fact, recommendation, uncertainty

Established fact
Pattern and tech pack ownership depends on the agreement and the circumstances, and is not automatic in the buyer’s favour.
Recommendation
Agree ownership, reuse, storage and transfer terms for each file type before sampling starts.
Uncertainty
Legal treatment of pattern ownership differs between jurisdictions, so take advice for high-value designs.

Sources and further reading

No single official source defines this, so this answer is a recommendation based on how production and buying are commonly organised. Confirm every figure and term in your own quotation.

More perspectives from the team

Three further views on the same question, each by function. They add conditions and limits to the main answer; they are editorial notes, not customer reviews.

Sino Finetex Editorial Team Sourcing

Include file transfer in your supplier change plan from the start, and ask what the factory would charge to release graded patterns. Limit: a low development fee may come with an obligation that you only learn about later. Ask how the factory handled a customer who changed supplier before, which tells you whether a release is realistic.

Sino Finetex Editorial Team Product selection

Start from your own tech pack where the product is distinctive, and use factory base patterns for basics. Limit: base patterns are cheaper but may be sold to others. If you may move production later, keep a design that can be reproduced from your own spec sheet and measurements.

Sino Finetex Editorial Team Quality & care

Ask that final approved measurements and grading rules be recorded in the files you receive, since they are the quality reference. Limit: a pattern without a spec sheet is hard for a new factory to reproduce. Request the final grading table with the pattern, because a new factory will need it to hit the same measurements.

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