Illustrative situation
A buyer receives a test report saying "pilling 3-4 after 5,000 rubs" for a fleece. The buyer does not know whether this is good, what 5,000 rubs mean and how to compare it with another fabric.
Main answer
A Martindale pilling test rubs the fabric against a standard abradant in a set motion for a stated number of cycles and then rates the surface change on a graded scale. To read a result, you need the method, the number of rubs and the grading scale, and to set a minimum grade that suits how the product will be used.
What the method does
ASTM D4970 covers the determination of resistance to the formation of pills and other related surface changes on textile fabrics using the Martindale tester. ISO 12945-2 describes a modified Martindale method for the propensity of fabric to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting, with specimens rubbed in a Lissajous motion and assessed in defined stages. Both are widely used to compare fabrics.
Other pilling methods
ASTM D3512 is a different method that uses a random tumble pilling tester, so it does not give the same numbers as Martindale. This is why a report must name the method. Results from different methods and different laboratories can differ, and standards advise comparing laboratories before settling disputes between buyer and seller.
Reading a grade
Pilling is graded visually against references, usually on a numerical scale where a higher number means less pilling, with half steps in many reports. A report should state the number of rubs at which the grade was assessed, since a fabric may be fine at a low number and worse at a high one. Check the specimen was the fabric you will use, with the finish you will have.
Set a useful requirement
Decide a minimum grade at a stated number of rubs for each product type. A casual fleece may tolerate more surface change than a premium knit, and you should consider handfeel, since low-pilling finishes can alter it. Put the method, rubs and grade in the quotation and approve a retained sample. See product choices on hoodie manufacturer and undershirts.
Fact, recommendation, uncertainty
- Established fact
- ASTM D4970 and ISO 12945-2 are Martindale-based methods, while ASTM D3512 uses a random tumble tester, so their results are not interchangeable.
- Recommendation
- Ask for method, number of rubs and grade, and set a minimum grade for each product type in the quotation.
- Uncertainty
- We found no universal minimum grade for apparel, so the requirement should reflect your product and market.
Sources and further reading
- ASTM D4970 — Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics (Martindale)
- ISO 12945-2:2020 — Fabric propensity to surface pilling, fuzzing or matting: modified Martindale method
- ASTM D3512 — Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface Changes of Textile Fabrics (random tumble)
Sources checked on 24 October 2026. Standards bodies sell the full texts; we cite what their public pages state. General information, not legal or technical certification advice.
More perspectives from the team
Three further views on the same question, each by function. They add conditions and limits to the main answer; they are editorial notes, not customer reviews.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Sourcing
Request pilling results from the same method and rubs for every candidate fabric. Limit: reports from different labs may not match even for one fabric. Ask for the fabric composition and finishing details alongside the pilling grade.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Product selection
Balance pilling resistance with handfeel, because the softest finishes often pill more. Limit: you may choose softness knowingly for a short-life product. Brushed or very soft surfaces are more likely to show surface change, so set expectations.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Quality & care
Test the bulk fabric as well as the development fabric, since they can differ. Limit: a lab grade after rubs is not the same as wear after months. Compare the tested piece with a garment worn and washed by a few staff.
Related products
- M8315 Contrast Stitch Hoodie
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- DY007 400g Heavyweight Double Yarn French Terry Hoodie
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