Illustrative situation
A customer’s sweater looks fine for a few weeks, then pills form under the arms and along the sides. They ask whether the fabric is poor or whether washing and wearing habits caused it.
Main answer
Pilling comes from friction that tangles loose fibre ends into small balls on the surface, so slow it by washing knitwear inside out in a mesh bag on a gentle cycle, avoiding rough items and high heat, and removing pills carefully with a comb or fabric shaver. Fabric quality sets the baseline, but care decides how fast pills appear.
How pills form
Fibre ends work loose from the yarn through rubbing, then tangle with each other into small balls that stay attached by longer fibres. Short staple fibres, soft low-twist yarns and brushed surfaces pill more easily. Synthetic fibres can hold pills firmly, while cotton pills may fall away. Friction under the arms and at the sides is the main trigger.
Wash in a way that limits friction
Turn items inside out and place them in a mesh bag. Use a gentle cycle, mild detergent and a small load. Do not wash knitwear with jeans, towels or items with zips and hooks. Avoid long, hot dryer cycles, which roughen the surface. Dry flat when possible, because tumbling increases surface wear.
Wear habits
Rubbing from backpacks, seat belts, bag straps and rough jackets causes pills in the same spots. Alternate garments so one piece is not worn daily, and give them time to recover. Avoid wearing delicate knitwear under heavy abrasive layers when you can. Keep shirts away from velcro and rough surfaces.
A note on shavers
Use a shaver only on dry, flat fabric and work lightly, since cutting too deeply can thin the knit and leave holes. Clean the blade afterwards and test on a hidden hem first.
Removing and measuring pills
Remove pills with a fabric comb, a sweater stone or a battery shaver, working lightly on a flat surface and not pulling. Avoid razors. Makers use ASTM D4970 to compare the pilling resistance of fabrics with a Martindale tester, so ask for a result before buying large quantities. See how the Martindale pilling test works.
Fact, recommendation, uncertainty
- Established fact
- ASTM D4970 is a Martindale-based method used to compare fabrics’ resistance to pilling and related surface changes.
- Recommendation
- Limit friction in the wash and in wear, avoid heat, and remove pills gently as they appear.
- Uncertainty
- Care slows pilling but does not stop it, because fibre and yarn type set the underlying tendency.
Sources and further reading
Sources checked on 24 October 2026. Standards bodies sell the full texts; we cite what their public pages state. General information, not legal or technical certification advice.
More perspectives from the team
Three further views on the same question, each by function. They add conditions and limits to the main answer; they are editorial notes, not customer reviews.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Sourcing
Ask which yarn type and spinning method are used, since long-staple and tightly twisted yarns pill less. Limit: those yarns cost more and may feel firmer. Ask for pilling results at a stated number of rubs, with the method named on the report.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Product selection
Use a smoother face on areas that rub, such as sides and underarms. Limit: design choices might conflict with a soft, brushed look. Avoid very soft brushed surfaces on high-wear areas if lifespan matters more than handfeel.
Sino Finetex Editorial Team Quality & care
Keep a wear-tested garment with visible pill spots as evidence in your quality file. Limit: wear tests depend on who wears the garment and how. Re-check a wear-tested piece for pills after five washes, not only after the first.
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