How do I specify a fabric properly in a quotation?

Main answer

A clear fabric specification states composition, yarn, construction, weight with tolerance, width, finish, colour and test requirements, so quotes can be compared like with like and disputes avoided. Without these details, "heavy cotton fleece" can mean very different fabrics at very different prices.

Composition and yarn

State the fibre content by generic name and percentage, as required on labels under the US Textile rules. Add the yarn type, such as combed ring-spun or carded open-end, yarn count if relevant, and elastane share and type. If you need a certified or branded fibre, name it and ask for the documents.

Construction and weight

Name the knit or weave, such as single jersey, french terry, interlock or rib. State the fabric weight in gsm with a tolerance, measured by a stated method, since ASTM D3776 covers mass per unit area. Add width, and say whether weight is for finished fabric. Heavier is not always better, so state the target.

Finish and colour

Describe finishes such as brushing, enzyme wash, pre-shrinking or mercerizing. State the colour with a reference, such as a swatch or standard, and set a shade tolerance. If a print or dye method matters, say so. Request lab dips or strike-offs to confirm colour before bulk.

Tolerances worth writing down

Weight, width, shrinkage and shade all vary a little. Give each a tolerance, for example a percentage for gsm and a limit for shrinkage, and say how it is measured. A spec without tolerances invites arguments about what close enough means.

Performance and tests

List the tests you require, such as shrinkage, colour fastness, pilling and any claims, with the method, the limit and the sample level. State what happens if the fabric fails. Ask the factory to confirm in writing that it can meet each point and to quote on that basis. See what to send for an accurate quote and hoodie design and sampling.