How do I stop polo collars from curling?

Main answer

Polo collars curl when the collar fabric, interlining, stitching tension or pressing do not match the body fabric, so specify a stable collar knit, a suitable interlining or stiffening, correct sewing tension and a wash test of the finished collar. Do not approve the collar from the hanger, because curl often appears only after washing. Collars are the first place customers look on a polo.

Why collars curl

A collar is a knitted flat piece or rib sewn to the neckline. If the collar fabric shrinks differently from the body, is too thin or is stretched while sewing, it will curl or wave as it relaxes. Heat and moisture in washing release tension that was built in during sewing.

Collar fabric and interlining

Collar knit, often a flat knit or a heavier rib, should be stable and have similar shrinkage to the body. Some collars use interlining or fusing to give body, but the wrong type can shrink or bubble after washing. Ask for the collar fabric’s specification and its shrinkage after washing.

Sewing and pressing

Stretching the collar while sewing leaves tension that causes curl, so the collar must be fed evenly and not stretched. The collar points need correct shaping, and pressing should set the shape without damaging the fabric. Stitching should lie flat at the neckline and edges.

Collar stays and points

Some polos use removable collar stays or stitched points to hold the collar flat. Ask whether this suits your style, and how stays are added or removed in the finished garment. Customers should be told whether to remove stays before washing.

Testing and care

Wash several finished polos and check collars for curl and waviness. AATCC TM88B covers the smoothness of seams after home laundering, and can be applied to seam appearance. Give customers care advice, such as drying flat or on low and reshaping the collar. See piqué or jersey for polos and wavy hems.