What should a streetwear brand specify in a heavyweight T-shirt?

Main answer

A heavyweight T-shirt spec should state the fabric weight in grams per square metre, the fibre and yarn, the knit structure, the shrinkage control, the collar and the cut, and the brand should ask for a measured weight and a washed sample before bulk, because heavyweight has no single agreed definition in the trade. Define it by numbers, not by the word.

Fabric weight

Fabric weight is measured as mass per unit area, and ASTM D3776 is a standard test method for it. In trade convention, T-shirt weights are described in bands such as light, mid and heavy, but the bands vary by supplier. Put a target and a tolerance in your spec and ask for a test result on the finished fabric.

Fibre, yarn and knit

Heavy jersey is commonly made from thicker or more tightly knit cotton yarns. Ask for the yarn count, the knit type and whether the fabric is combed, since these shape the feel and the drape. A heavy fabric can feel stiff if it is not finished well, so test the hand before bulk. See the T-shirt manufacturer page.

Cut and construction

Streetwear cuts are often boxy, with a dropped shoulder and a wider body. A ribbed collar that is thick enough to hold its shape and a taped neck seam help the shirt look right. Check sleeve and hem finish, and decide how much length shrinkage you can accept.

Labels and prints

Heavy fabric holds large prints well but can stiffen under thick ink. Test print hand on the washed fabric and check that a tagless label does not crack. Make sure the label states fibre content and care that match the fabric you ordered.

Shrinkage and washing

Heavy cotton can shrink and twist. Ask for shrinkage results after washing and use pre-washed or compacted fabric where needed. Print on the washed sample, since prints on heavy fabric can behave differently.